Costume – a living story of identity and craftsmanship

Folk costumes and koltars carry stories about people, places and traditions. The new exhibition Dräkt at the Slöjd- och formcenter på Shopping in Luleå highlights both personal heritage and Norrbotten craftsmanship – from classic village costumes to unique, newly composed koltars in modern materials.

Craft and design consultants Linnea Nilsson and Sofia Öberg have led the work of collecting and documenting costumes from across the county over two intensive years. Interest in folk costumes has increased significantly, especially among young people, and this is evident in the demand for courses and materials.

“Many young people are getting in touch and wanting to sew their own costume. We see a great and growing interest,” says Linnea.
– And with that comes the need for knowledge about the techniques behind it, Sofia adds.
– It is difficult to get hold of costume fabrics and some weave their own fabrics. We want to collect and share that knowledge.

Sofia Öberg and Linnea Nilsson have been working on the exhibition for two years.

The exhibition features over 40 costumes and kolts. Here, older traditions coexist with newer initiatives, from classic Norrbotten costumes to costumes developed by local enthusiasts in the 1980s and onwards. Many of them are only available in very small editions.

– We want to show how rich the range of costumes actually is in Norrbotten, says Linnea.
– It is bubbling with local initiatives, and this is a way to promote both pride and craftsmanship.

“The Kolt tradition is very much alive”

Part of the exhibition is about the Sami Kolts. Lisa Tapio Pittja, coordinator of the Sami section, describes a living tradition that contains both strong roots and great creativity.

– The kolt tradition is very much alive. You can use whatever materials you want, and that appeals to young people. At the same time, each kolt carries clear signs of which area it belongs to, she says.

She has collected colts from all six areas in Norrbotten and highlighted mainly younger craftsmen.
– It was important for me to lift up those who are in the starting blocks. There is so much knowledge, and the interest is only growing.

Lisa Tapio Pittja with two of her own works in the exhibition Costume, a blue men's suit and a black women's suit.

Detective work

Collecting the costumes has been a detective job. Contacts have led to new contacts, and long journeys have resulted in encounters that add depth to the stories.

– I met a woman who is 101 years old, who wove the fabric for a Tärendö costume. Getting her story is invaluable, says Linnea.

The exhibition is also dynamic – it will change and grow throughout the year.

“It's a living exhibition,” says Sofia. “We hope to bring in more costumes and continue to build knowledge.” 

A folk costume doesn't have to be old – the exhibition features several examples of costumes that have been created in modern times by people who wanted to create a costume that reflects their place in Norrbotten. Here we have the Arvidsjaur costume, inspired by heather and cloudberries.

The Crafts and Design Center calls 2026 its "costume year", and the exhibition is complemented by program activities in embroidery, mending, carving, knitting and other techniques. In addition, so-called "outlooks" are planned with inspiration from other parts of the country. And after the year, the exhibition will tour the county.

At its core, Dräkt is about pride and belonging – and about the power of creating something with your hands.

“Doing it yourself is health and wellness,” says Sofia.
– And the exhibition is also a tribute to all the strong women who have passed on knowledge, says Linnea.

Exhibition Apparel is displayed at the Crafts and Design Center in Luleå throughout the year.

Text and image: Sara Stylbäck Vesa